A recipe for cacio e pepe published by the UK’s Good Food website has sparked an outcry in Italy, with critics accusing the publication of misrepresenting the classic Roman dish.
The controversy centers on the recipe’s suggestion to use parmesan and butter, which it called a “speedy lunch” made with “four simple ingredients.” An Italian restaurant association, Fiepet Confesercenti, expressed its dismay, clarifying that the authentic dish contains only three ingredients: pasta, pecorino cheese, and black pepper. The association’s president, Claudio Pica, confirmed that letters of complaint have been sent to the website’s owner, Immediate Media, and to UK ambassador Edward Llewellyn.
In response, Good Food stated that its recipe was designed for home cooks using ingredients readily available in the UK. The publication has since invited Fiepet Confesercenti to submit an authentic version to be featured on its site. Good Food, which was sold by the BBC in 2018, also referenced the dispute in a tongue-in-cheek social media post, calling it an “international incident.”
The primary objection from Italian chefs and media is that the website presented its simplified version as the original. A journalist for the public broadcaster RAI commented, “Such a grave mistake… The suggestion of adding some cream gave me goosebumps.”
While Italians often critique foreign interpretations of their cuisine, the reaction highlights a deeper concern for preserving culinary tradition. Giorgio Eramo, who runs a fresh pasta restaurant near St. Peter’s Square, dismissed the Good Food recipe. “It’s terrible. It’s not cacio e pepe,” he said. “What they published, with butter and parmesan, is called ‘pasta Alfredo’. It’s another kind of pasta.”
Maurizio, a fourth-generation hotel owner in Rome, agreed, stating, “You can do all the variations in the world, but you cannot use the original Italian name for them. You cannot say it is cacio e pepe if you put butter, oil, and cream in it.”
The sentiment was echoed by other Roman food business owners. Nicola, from a sandwich shop near the Vatican, was particularly critical of using cream, a common addition in non-Italian versions of pasta dishes. “Cream is for desserts,” he said. “Whoever uses cream does not know what cooking means.”
Eleonora, who works at a cafe in central Rome, acknowledged that while the anger may seem intense, it stems from a profound connection to culinary heritage. “Our tradition is based on food,” she explained. “So if you touch the only thing that we have… that can make us feel a bit sad.”
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