While Croatia’s coastal regions of Dalmatia and Istria often capture the spotlight, the Kvarner region offers a compelling alternative for wine and food enthusiasts. This lesser-known area boasts a fascinating history, a burgeoning wine industry centered on local grape varieties, and world-class cuisine celebrating the Adriatic’s maritime bounty.
The heart of the region is the Gulf of Kvarner, an archipelago where fishing and viticulture have thrived for centuries. At the northern end of the gulf lies Rijeka, Croatia’s main port city. Its naturally deep harbour has made it a strategic maritime hub since the Neolithic period, leading to an eventful history of conflict and cultural exchange. The city has endured numerous assaults, from Attila the Hun to Charlemagne, and was a bastion against Ottoman incursions. Ruled by the Habsburgs for centuries, Rijeka was later annexed by Italy before becoming part of Yugoslavia in 1945 and finally Croatia in 1991.
This deep history extends to the region’s winemaking, which likely pre-dates the Romans. The industry is concentrated within the Primorje-Gorski Kotar county, which includes Rijeka on the mainland and the major islands of Krk, Pag, and Rab. “Kvarner is a small, specific boutique wine region, where mostly autochthonous grape varieties are planted,” says Žarko Stilin, director of the Kvarner Wines regional association. “Today, the entire region has about 200 hectares of vineyards, while historical documents indicate that there were once several thousand hectares on the island of Krk alone.”
At one point, Krk—the largest island in the Adriatic Sea—was a hotbed for Croatian viticulture. “In some records from the 18th and 19th centuries, it is noted that more than half of the arable land on Krk was used for vineyards,” says Egle Katunar, proprietor of the Ivan Katunar winery. “Monasteries and noble families maintained vineyards, and wine was a major source of income for both poor labourers and wealthy landowners.”
Like much of Europe, Kvarner’s vineyards were decimated by phylloxera in the late 1890s. The local economy later shifted toward tourism, as visitors were drawn to the country’s affordability and pristine beaches. “Beginning in the 1960s, tourism boomed on Krk,” Katunar explains. “Land once used for vineyards was converted into apartments and tourist accommodations. Generational change also played a role as younger generations left agriculture, leading to further vineyard abandonment.”
Now, a renaissance is underway. As Croatia has emerged as a top global tourist destination, visitors are looking beyond the beaches to explore its gastronomy, with local wines leading the way. “The 1980s and 1990s saw a revival of local winemaking,” notes Katunar. This resurgence is now gaining significant recognition; in 2025, entries from the Kvarner Wineries Association received 12 medals at the Decanter World Wine Awards.
The region’s growing reputation as a world-class culinary destination, bolstered by Michelin-starred dining in Rijeka, has further elevated its status. In recognition of this, the International Institute of Gastronomy, Culture, Art, and Tourism designated Kvarner as the “European Region of Gastronomy” for 2026. This rising tide is lifting the region’s profile, with a focus on pairing local seafood with Kvarner’s most popular wine, made from the white grape Žlahtina.
Croatia boasts a remarkable 130 indigenous grape varieties, but in Kvarner, one reigns supreme. “Of the 37 indigenous varieties in Kvarner, we like to call Žlahtina the regional ‘queen’ as it accounts for almost 90% of the wine produced here,” says Stilin. He adds that its versatility is key: “There are more than 40 labels produced from Žlahtina—from pet nat and frizzante sparkling wines to traditional method sparkling wines. You can find fresher styles, those fermented in barrel, as well as orange wines and the regional sweet wine Prošek.”
For red wine, the ancient Sansigot variety, originally from the island of Susak, is the focus of preservation efforts. While no longer bottled on its home island, it can be found on Krk, where dedicated winegrowers like Ivica Dobrinčić of Šipun are committed to saving it from extinction.
“Kvarner as a whole is witnessing a winemaking renaissance,” concludes Katunar. “There are now more wineries, better quality and creativity from a new generation of producers. Globally, wine enthusiasts, particularly Millennials and Gen Z, are exploring lesser-known regions, indigenous varieties, and natural wines. These are all areas where Kvarner has its strengths.”
Source link
