Editor’s note: John deBary is the author of “Drink What You Want: The Subjective Guide to Making Objectively Delicious Cocktails”, CEO and Founder of Proteau, a zero-proof beverage company, and Co-Founder and Chairman of the Board of the Restaurant Workers’ Community Foundation. This note was adapted from its original by The Food Network, which, like Trends Wide, is owned by Warner Bros. Discovery.
(Trends Wide) — Whiskey is one of the broadest and most complex categories of spirits out there, and bourbon is one of the best known. To help you explore this fascinating American spirit, here’s a quick guide that will show you a few secrets.
What exactly is bourbon? And how is it made?
Legally, bourbon must be made in the United States from a mixture of grains, or a mixture known as a “mash,” that contains at least 51% corn and the remaining rye, wheat, and malted barley.
It must be aged in new charred oak containers, usually barrels. The key elements are that it is produced mostly from corn, in the United States, and is aged in a charred new oak container. It’s common to find bourbons that are produced in Kentucky, but that’s more a matter of tradition than legal requirement. Bourbon is made all over the country, from Hawaii to Maine.
In general, the flavors that can be found in bourbon are toasty, somewhat sweet, and with prominent notes of caramel, vanilla, and spices. They are very useful in cocktails, perhaps the most versatile of the dark spirits, along with rum.
Bourbon producers must adhere to the rule that 51% of their recipe must be corn, but they can play pretty freely with the remaining grains. Most include a significant percentage of rye, which can give the drink a grassy green note, but others incorporate good portions of wheat, which imparts a delicate smoothness, creating a more approachable spirit. (Maker’s Mark is a notable example of Bourbon with wheat.)
Bourbons can also vary depending on where they are aged and for how long. Those produced in Kentucky experience a drastic change in climate between summer and winter, ensuring that the wood and whiskey have a chance to really integrate. Barrel aging accomplishes several things: First, the incinerated wood of the charred oak acts as a filter (think activated charcoal) that draws out undesirable elements from the liquor. Second, the toasted wood infuses the raw drink with aromas of woodsy, caramel, vanilla, and sometimes coconut. Lastly, since the barrel is not airtight, controlled oxidation helps to mature and soften some of the harsher notes of the drink.
Best Overall: Four Roses Single Barrel Bourbon
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In whiskey jargon, the term “single cask” refers to one that is bottled from a particular cask chosen by the distiller for its exceptional quality. This is in contrast to most whiskeys, where many casks are blended together to produce a uniform and consistent product. Four Roses is an iconic Kentucky producer, and this bottle, while a bit more expensive, will work well in any situation.
To drink straight: Hillrock Solera Aged Bourbon
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Bourbon purists might scoff at my choice of a bourbon produced in upstate New York, but this whiskey is unique and delicious. First, it is aged using the “solera” method, which is most commonly used by sherry producers, where freshly produced liquid is added to the aged to create a final product that has a blend of very old and relatively new whiskey. . This creates a complex character that is enhanced by the time this Bourbon spends in Oloroso sherry casks, giving it a fruity and spicy character.
Best for a Whiskey Sour: Wild Turkey 101
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In general, spirits are bottled at 80 proof or 40% alcohol by volume (ABV). In the case of whiskey, it is not uncommon for that percentage to be higher (close to 45-50% ABV). Master Distiller Jimmy Russel has been working with Wild Turkey for more than 50 years, and his son joined as Master Distiller in 2015. The 50.5% ABV bourbon, equivalent to 101 proof, has enough strength that, mixed with juice of lemon, egg white and sugar in a classic whiskey sour recipe, the spicy citrus notes continue to shine through.
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Best for a Manhattan: Breckenridge Bourbon
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This Colorado distiller claims to be the highest distillery in the world, at 3,000 meters above sea level. As a former barista, my default alcohol for a Manhattan would definitely be rye whiskey, which has a touch of spicier and stronger than its smoother, sweeter cousin Bourbon. This bottle, however, is made with a recipe that calls for 40% rye (most producers use less than half in their mix). This allows you to have the best of both worlds if you’re one of those people who prefers to brew their Manhattans with bourbon.
El mejor para un Old Fashioned: Elijah Craig Small Batch Kentucky Bourbon
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Baptist minister Elijah Craig is said to have “invented” bourbon when he “accidentally” charred oak barrels before storing his whiskey in them. Regardless of the truth of this statement, this bourbon is an excellent choice in every way, and its high alcohol content of 47% gives it enough strength to withstand the dilution that occurs when preparing an old fashioned.
Best Value for Money: Old Grand Dad
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While not much cheaper than the previously mentioned Wild Turkey 101, the Old Grand Dad has more of a reputation for being “lower end”, and I’m not entirely sure why. I first tried it in a cocktail I created while at Please Don’t Tell, a cocktail bar in New York, and it has held a special place in my heart ever since. It may not be my first drinking choice, but this bottle is great for many shots: highballs, juleps, and old pals, to name a few.
